Rochester, Northumberland - Reivers, New Year and Astrotourism

Rochester, Northumberland is the second 'Rochester' we've visited during our series of Chester walks, the other being Rochester in Kent, on the River Medway.  It was also our third visit to the North East of England, as we've previously been to Chesterwood and Rudchester - both of which are alongside Hadrian's wall. 

Lodgings and victuals

Rochester in Northumberland was pretty much the last outpost for the Romans in England and, being so far away from London, we found it impossible to do this trip in a single weekend. 

So, this walk was quite special, in the sense that we combined it with our New Year celebrations and stayed three nights in a gorgeous little cottage called Petty Knowes, which is owned by Gordon and Joanne Moore, who also own the village shop in Otterburn, The Border Reiver.  I'd heard about Border Reivers before this walk - the 15th and 16th century 'highwaymen' who owed no allegiance to either the English or Scottish crowns and terrorised both sides of the border.  

Petty Knowes farmhouse and cottage in Rochester

We'd highly recommend staying with Gordon and Joanne - not only are they incredibly welcoming, but theirs is a very interesting story, having ditched highly-paid jobs and city lives, they moved to the rural Northumberland around twelve years ago and have really made a success of their businesses.  Gordon is somewhat of a Roman history enthusiast and Joanne gave us a lot of useful information about access to the surrounding countryside. 

BAM and BRH

In a departure from tradition and because it was New Year, we had a special guest on our Chester walk this time - not just myself and BAM (Best Aussie Mate), but also BRH (Best Russian Husband), my long-suffering and patient partner who has closely followed our previous walks (online/virtually) and been incredibly supportive of our challenge to visit all of the Chesters. 

Petty Knowes cottage to Stewartshiels Plantation (1.4 miles/2.3 kilometres)

Joanne told us about the origin of the name 'Petty Knowes' which is connected to the small mounds/knolls or knowes near the cottage, which are believed to cover a Roman graveyard.  The cottage is situated very close to the remains of Dere Street, the road that led from York to the Antonine Wall near (what is now) Edinburgh. 

Northumberland countryside

Rochester was known as Bremenium in Roman times, a name connected to the local stream.  As we made our way along the small lane leading to Hillock, we passed through what would have been the original fort, but is now a farmyard, still visible in the landscape.  What's interesting is that many of the local buildings, including the cottage we stayed in, most likely contain stone that was originally part of the Roman fort.  It's amazing to see how the fort has been 'recycled' into the modern buildings. 

Signpost for Bremenium

Before reaching Hillock, there is a sign that points out a path running uphill, towards the distant trees of Stewartshiels Plantation.  This whole area is part of the Northumberland National Park, one of England's least populated areas and a place that very few people have been lucky enough to visit.  The Park was just recently awarded 'Dark Sky' status and is set to becoming Britain's leading 'hotspot' for astrotourism.  Unfortunately, being quite stormy around New Year, it was bitterly cold outside and the sky was too cloudy for us to engage in any nocturnal star-gazing!

BAM and BRH walking towards the plantation

Stewartshiels Plantation to Dudless Road (2 miles/3.2 kilometres)

We're not quite sure about the exact distance we covered in Stewartshiels plantation.  It's difficult to orientate yourself in a forest and we somehow ended up wandering around a bit and coming out onto the Dudless Road, about half a mile from where we'd intended to be! 

It was at the plantation that we saw our first signs of military activity, due to the proximity of the Otterburn Training Area, the UK's largest firing range and one of Europe's most important military training areas.  I still find it fascinating that so many of the 'chesters', which were identified as strategic areas by the Roman military are still somehow connected to the military in the 21st century. 

It's always a bit nerve-racking walking in or near MOD (Ministry of Defence) property, but it's something we've had to get used to, since our first 'chester' walk (Ancaster) in 2010.  Luckily, being New Year, there weren't any major training activities when we were there, so no red warning flags!

Danger: Military training zone!

Road through the plantation

I've rarely been to a place that is as deathly silent as Stewartshiels plantation - it felt as though we'd fallen into a post-apocalyptic novel and the views along the long plantation roads were beautiful and spooky in equal measure!  Eventually we stumbled out onto a main road again, between Stewartshiels and Tofthouse farms.

Road to Stewartshiels Farm

Dudless Road to Hopehead (2.5 miles/4.1 kilometres)

We've seen a lot on these Chester trips and walked in all kinds of strange places, but I think this was our first time to walk on a runway.  To be honest, we didn't initially realise it was a runway - it merely looked like a rather conveniently smooth short-cut to where we wanted to go.  It was only after consulting the map halfway along that we realised we were standing in the middle of an airstrip!

Walking on the airstrip

From the airstrip we walked uphill along a very empty road that runs along the edge of the Otterburn Training area.  The air was incredibly fresh and chill along the ridge and we had spectacular views of the Redesdale valley in the late afternoon winter light. Apart from grazing sheep and mysterious military-type buildings, this part of the walk was pretty uneventful, until we reached the junction at Hopehead, where we were able to turn downhill, towards Otterburn and the bottom of the valley. 

Rainbow

Hopehead to Hopefoot (1.6 miles/2.5 kilometres)

The Hopefoot road leading downhill came to a 'blind summit' which, I realise must have something to do with visibility for drivers but set us off on a mental tangent trying to imagine a summit for all of the world's most influential blind people, past and present!  The road passes Otterburn camp and leads all the way to a small farmstead at the bottom of the hill, where we then took a public footpath towards the river (Otter Burn). 

Lonely road alongside the Otterburn Training Area

Sign post for Otterburn

BRH walking towards the 'blind summit'

Hopefoot to Otterburn (1.4 miles/2.25 kilometres)

Apparently there are still otters in the Otter Burn, but we didn't see any, as we walked along the riverside footpath. The light began to fade, as we made our way to Otterburn village.  Otterburn is a quiet little village, somewhat dominated by the road to Scotland and the frequent traffic passing through.  Whilst Gordon and Joanne have managed to make the local shop work, it's clear that some of the other local businesses haven't fared so well and Otterburn is in danger of becoming just another commuter town or retirement village, without a real sense of community or an identity of its own.  It's a shame really, as there's something quite special about this remotest corner of England. 

Hopefoot

Otterburn Tower - now a hotel

Access for wheelchair users:

Actually, most of this route is accessible, except the first part which crosses fields to the Stewartshiels plantation.  The roads around the military area are good and were relatively traffic-free when we were there, although it was during the New Year holiday.  An alternative route, which would be wholly accessibly would be to follow the Yatesfield Road from Bennettsfield.  The A68 is much too busy and we wouldn't advise using any part of this road in a wheelchair, as it's dangerous.  The roads around Otterburn seem to be fairly accessible.  

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