Reculver - Maponimoes, Marshes and a very Merry Christmas!

Reculver marked our second foray into Kent, although both myself and BAM (Best Aussie Mate) have walked on the Kent coast several times with our walking group 'The Odd Weekenders' and we're about to embark on a separate project to walk the Saxon Shore way, which runs 163 miles around the coast (well, mostly!) from Gravesend to Hastings.

I have a real soft spot for Kent, as it was the part of England I first stayed in, when I was working in the strawberry farms around Maidstone, many moons ago.  I always enjoy going back there, although the changing politics of the past few years has made Kent seem more isolated and further away from London than ever!

Lodging and victuals

But Kent isn't that far from London at all - at least when the trains are working!  I'm quite delayed in writing this blog post, so the walk itself took place just before Christmas, which meant my being accompanied on the train, late on a Friday evening, by a very glamorous BAM, who dropped into her work Christmas party, before hoofing it down to Kent with me.

Dilapidated house in the heart of Brexitland (not our hotel!)

There's very little at Reculver, by way of accommodation, so we decided to overnight in Herne Bay instead, staying at the Premier Inn Canterbury North.  BAM is quite fond of the Premier Inn and our Chester walks have seen her rising through the ranks of the Premier Inn's card-holding customers, so she gets all kinds of discounts and special treatments these days. She's like Premier Inn royalty now!

Not intimidated by Her Premier's royal presence, I enjoyed a couple of celebratory Christmas drinks at the hotel's on site restaurant, as we exchanged Christmas gifts and played maponimoes, spreading our European map and flag cards all over the table, in what could only be described as an act of open rebellion in that heart of Brexitland.

Premier Inn Canterbury North to Reculver (3.1 miles/5 kilometres)

We started out bright and early the next day, crossing over the railway line, before turning right onto the Reculver Road, leading all the way down to the coast.

It's an easy walk from Herne Bay to Reculver, along the cliff top at Reculver Country park, you get a wonderful view of Reculver's main attraction, the remains of St Mary's Church, its twin towers rising dramatically above the surrounding landscape, with the waves crashing on the seashore just below.

BAM walking towards Reculver

I feel that Reculver is pushing it a bit, as far as chesters go and it's fair to say that the chester connection is barely noticeable in the modern toponym that the village has carried into the 21st century.  But I can vouch for Reculver's chester credentials, as it was the site of a Roman castrum, which they called Regulbium, which became Raculfcaester and eventually, Reculver.

The twin towers of St Mary's, Reculver

Ruins of St Mary's at Reculver

The current ruins of St Mary's date back to the 12th century and the original Anglo-Saxon church on this site was built in the 7th century, being constructed from stone in the ruins of the Roman castrum. Reculver was an important place, once upon a time and I can't help wondering if it could have ended up being the capital of England, if history had dealt it different cards.

Map of the Kentish coast in Roman times

One of my favourite things at the site is a map which shows what Kent looked like in Roman times. Reculver was surrounded by the sea on several sides, being a port on the Wantsum Channel, an ancient body of water that separated the Isle of Thanet from the rest of England.  The land underneath the Wantsum Channel has now been reclaimed, which explains why the Saxon Shore way, which we were following for the first half of this walk, suddenly turns inland, as it follows the original shoreline, known to Romans and Saxons alike.

All of this got me thinking about the fact that there aren't many European capitals that are on the sea - London, Paris, Berlin, Rome - they're all a safe distance from invading armies!  Reculver would have been a seaside capital, in the tradition of Dublin, Venice, Barcelona and, as we gazed across the empty landscape towards Thanet, I tried to imagine a city of millions spread out in front of me - a kind of, London-by-the-Sea!

Reculver to Grays Farm (1.7 miles/2.8 kilometres)

So far, so familiar territory.  The real adventure was leaving the coast at Reculver and following the Saxon Shore way along the former Wantsum Channel, passing under the railway again and coming up to the road at Grays Farm.

Reclaimed land in the Wantsum Channel

The A299 hurtled beneath us, uninterested in the details of our journey, as these roads rarely are.  It's an impressive road, all the same, and was built in the 1930's as an unemployment relief project, easing the pressure on Canterbury, where previously, all traffic to the Isle of Thanet had to pass through.

The A299 aka The Thanet Way

Grays Farm to Boyden Gate (2.1 miles/3.3 kilometres)

It was a very beautiful walk from Grays Farm to Boyden Gate.  Although it's winter, you could still get a sense of Kent as the Garden of England and we passed through lots of orchards, some of which still had apples on the trees.  Like East Anglia, Kent is surprisingly depopulated and we really felt this in the lonely landscape around the Chislet Marshes, with no sign of human life at all, just the odd farmhouse and lonely trees in the middle of fields.

Lonely road along the edge of Chislet Marshes

Orchard near Boyden Gate

There wasn't much life in Boyden Gate either, but we'll always remember it as the place where we had possibly the most precarious lunch break ever, perched on a collapsed bench at the end of Chapel Lane!  I had a yummy sandwich with turkey and cranberry sauce - a bit extravagant, but in keeping with the Yuletide spirit.

Fallen apples

Bench at Church Lane, Boyden Gate

Boyden Gate to Grove Ferry (1.9 miles/3 kilometres)

From Boyden Gate, we crossed a field leading to the intriguingly named Chitty Lane and continued along the edge of the marshes, over Walmer's Hill, across Island Road and then downhill to the River Stour at Grove Ferry.

Lonely tree on Walmer's Hill

Riverside at Grove Ferry

Grove Ferry looked like a pleasant place, with an attractive riverside pub and we're familiar with the River Stour, having walked along it once before, from Tonbridge to Hever.  There is another Stour in Suffolk, which is where Constable painted the works around Dedham Vale - I've also been there and I can say that Kent's Stour is just as pretty, if not as well-known as its East Anglian cousin.

Swan boat at Grove Ferry

Grove Ferry to Stodmarsh (2.4 miles/3.8 kilometres)

At Grove Ferry we bade farewell to the Saxon Shore way and picked up the Stour Valley way, heading southwest towards the village of Stodmarsh.

This part of the walk was incredibly beautiful and wild - like being in another country really and so far-removed from civilisation.  Stodmarsh is the site of a well-looked after national nature reserve and the bird life was teeming around the marsh and lakes of the Stodmarsh valley.

Stodmarsh valley

Stodmarsh is an incredibly pretty village and there was some kind of service going on in St Mary's Church.  As we sat on a bench in the village green, we watched handsomely dressed young couples, taking their babies and young children for a walk and a break, no doubt, from the tedium of the service.

St Mary's at Stodmarsh

Stodmarsh village sign

Stodmarsh to Fordwich (2.6 miles/4.2 kilometres)

We followed the road from Stodmarsh, all the way to Elbridge Farm, where I bought some apples, depositing my coins in the honesty box.  The path dipped into a field full of cows, which BAM bravely faced, as I stuck to the road, embracing my bovinophobia!

The path through Trenleypark Wood

At Elbridge Farm, we left the road and followed the Stour Valley way through Trenleypark Wood, emerging at the river again, just outside Fordwich, yet another pretty little village.

We had a lovely meal at the George and Dragon in Fordwich, splashing out on mains, drinks and dessert (must have been the Christmas spirit!) before crossing the river to Sturry, where we picked up our early evening train back to London.

Access for Wheelchair users

Country road near Chislet

The way between Herne Bay and Reculver is pretty accessible and a lovely route to follow.  The former Wantsum Channel is pretty inaccessible, however the roads around Grays Farm, Boyden Gate and Chislet would make for very good wheelchairing.

The Stour valley path is pretty inaccessible to wheelchair users on the Grove Ferry side and the Stodmarsh Road is quite busy, so I wouldn't recommend it, although a visit to Stodmarsh would be worthwhile and the Stour Valley path from Stodmarsh is accessible to a certain point - it could make a nice round trip from the village.  

Image credits:

All photos were taken by me - please feel free to reuse them under the following Creative Commons license:

- Attribution (especially to this blog post)
- Share-alike

- Non-commercial

Rochester - Roman Durobrivae

I always really look forward to my -chester walks and Rochester was no exception.  This is one of the closest -chesters to London, just a half hour on the train from St Pancras, nowhere near enough time for myself and BAM (Best Aussie Mate) to catch up on all the gossip since our last walk.  Getting off the train at Strood we managed to swap stories about our New Year trips to Hong Kong and Iceland, as we made our way to the Medway Bridge Marina for our night's accommodation aboard the Sovereign B&B. 

A Cruise Ship on the Medway



View from the Yellow Cabin

 Considering the importance of boats and shipping to Rochester's history, the Sovereign B&B/Flotel was the perfect place to start.  Originally a 1930's cruise ship on the Rhine called the Deutsches Eck, the Sovereign has been lovingly rennovated by Sue and Bob Forkner and now offers B&B accommodation for a very reasonable rate.  Sue and Bob were lovely to us, a real 'Irish' welcome and it was exciting to stay in such an original setting.  We had the Yellow Cabin, which was incredibly cosy and I would definitely recommend a night on the Sovereign for anyone who is interested in staying somewhere really special!  The breakfast was delicious and hearty, a great start to our day's walking.  You can find out more about The Sovereign B&B at their website. 

Medway Bridge Marine to Rochester (1.9 miles)



The first part of walk was along the Medway Valley trail from the Marina to Rochester Castle.  The Medway is like a little sister to the Thames, not quite as wide or as busy, it has, nevertheless, played an important role in the development of shipping in the south of England and the defense of the main estuaries against foreign invaders.  I've got somewhat of a soft spot for the Medway, having lived for a short time in Maidstone and been around during the Medway festival, I sense the importance of the river to local people - as it quietly meanders through north Kent, it hardly dares to live up to the expectations of those who live in the Medway valley.  The Medway separates east and west Kent - interestingly people in west Kent are called Kentish men (or maids), whereas people in east Kent are known as men (or maids) of Kent. 



A view of Rochester across the mudflats



I think the Medway valley has a different feel to it, than other parts of Kent.  It's certainly a lot more urban - the combined population of the Medway towns is about a quarter of a million - I guess, collectively they are almost a city!  The difference is recognised by the fact that Medway has its own local government structures, in the guise of the Medway Unitary authority.  It's a Tory stronghold and the MP for Rochester and Strood, Mark Reckless is the grandson of an Irish politician from my home county, Donegal.  Mark was one of the few Conservative MPs who voted against the rise to tuition fees in December, so I guess he's a 'good' Tory (or a reckless one!)

I wouldn't say the landscape at this part of the Medway is beautiful, what with the M2 motorway tearing through the background - but it's certainly very interesting and has, what BAM calls, an 'intrinsic' beauty.  The photos I've taken aren't exactly beautiful either, but there is something that appeals to me about the low intensity of the light at this time of the year and they way it contrasts with the dark mudflats and the grey backdrop of Rochester Castle. 

Rochester, too cold for bananas?


Rochester Castle


Like all of the other -chesters we have visited, there has been a settlement at Rochester since Roman times.  Durobrivae means something like 'stronghold at the bridge' and this important bridge over the Medway is central to Rochester's strategic location.  The castle is spectacular - it looks like the perfect prototype for the sandcastles that are built by millions of children the world over.  In a quirk of history, Rochester lost its city status due to an administrative error - a very English story, it has to be said! 



Rochester used to be a base for the shipbuilding company, Shorts, before they decided to concentrate on their shipyards in Belfast.  There seems to have been a pattern of business moving elsewhere - interestingly the other places that have benefitted from the Medway towns' losses are Grantham in Lincolnshire with Aveling and Porter's steamrollers (see my blog about our Ancaster trip) and Bicester in Oxfordshire with the centre for bomb disposal training (see my blog about our Bicester walk).  Whilst BAM went off on a reverie about leylines, songlines and how our -chester trips are somehow going to restore the world's karma - I was busy concocting a conspiracy theory, involving crusaders, masons and shady underground business/military networks!  What's more likely is that, the more we learn about Britain, the more its history and culture starts falling into place, like a gigantic jigsaw puzzle!



Sign outside Pip's of Rochester



We stopped in a lovely coffee bar on Rochester High Street called The Deaf Cat - it's got a very chilled atmosphere and is connected to a business which sells the works of local artists.  Most businesses on Rochester High Street seem to be called after characters or scenes from the novels of Charles Dickens.  Pip's of Rochester, the greengrocers where we stocked up on fruit and nuts, was no exception.  When I do these walks, I'm always fascinated by the range of signs we see on the way - signs telling us things, signs trying to sell us things and signs that seem to make no sense at all.  The sign in my photo, Too Cold for Bananas had me scratching my head for a while, trying to figure out why some of the bananas had been left there - were they somehow hardier than the others?  If it was too cold for bananas, what would that mean for people?

Rochester to Upper Upnor (2.5 miles)




Upnor Castle



Crossing from Rochester to Strood is like entering a completely different world.  Strood has the feel of an inner-city slum, but without the advantages of being in an inner city!  I don't know how Strood came into existence, but I'm interested to see what happens to Strood in the future - no doubt it will eventually be gentrified and prettied up, in an effort to attract more affluent inhabitants, on the high-speed rail that provides an easy commute from Strood to London.  Our path took us along the riverside and past a pub called The Riverside Tavern which had a massive rainbow flag flying outside!  It never ceases to amaze me how gay bars turn up in the most unlikely places.  I felt a mixture of fear and excitement, as we slunk past, it looked like a decent enough establishment.



Weatherboard House



Once out of Strood and past the industrial estates that border the river at Frindsbury, we entered another completely different world, ie. the quaint village feel of Upper Upnor and the quiet beauty of Upnor castle.  Upnor castle was built during the Elizabethan period to protect ships that were being repaired on the Medway.  I was fascinated by the buildings which were constructed in a very traditional Kentish style (or is that style of Kent?) using weatherboards, it reminded me a lot of houses I've seen in Scandinavia. 

Upper Upnor to the Hoo Marina Park (approx 3 miles)



Boats at Lower Upnor

 By this stage we were following the Saxon Shore Way a 163-mile trail that starts in Gravesend and ends in Hastings.  The signage was quite good and this part of the trail was relatively easy to follow as it runs, more or less, along the coast.  As BAM told me about her recent foray into the world of tree-planting, we picked our way along the shore, past Lower Upnor and the colourful boats moored in the various marinas and parks along this part of the coast.  The rain came on, as we passed the last of the slipways at Hoo Marina park and the sky darkened over Kingsnorth Power station, looming in the distance. 



Kingsnorth Power Station, Hoo

 Kingsnorth Power station is coal-powered and, under EU regulations, will be shut down in 2016.  There are plans to replace it with another (regulation-compliant) coal-powered station, but this has caused a lot of protests from environmental campaigners.  Apparently the replacement power station would have annual carbon emissions that amount to ten times the total emissions of Rwanda!  Coming from rural Ireland, I find power stations extraordinary - I'd never really seen one until I first came to England and, on those long journeys by bus and train from Holyhead to London, my first sight of power stations left an impression on me that hasn't fully evaporated. 

Hoo Marina Park to Newlands Farm (approx 2.6 miles)

Not long after Hoo Marina Park we turned inland, skirting the villages of Hoo St Werburgh and High Halstow, as we crossed the Hundred of Hoo.  I must admit, I got no small amount of pleasure telling colleagues that I would spending my Saturday walking across the Hundred of Hoo.  The who of what? was the most common reaction!  For anyone who doesn't know where it is, Hoo peninsula is the little bit of land that sticks out to the southeast of London, between the Thames and the Medway. 



BAM on the Hundred of Hoo

 For a place that's so close to London, it's very sparsely populated, but I think there are historical reasons for this, a major one being that the area was rife with malaria until the late-19th century.  It's naturally boggy land and most of the peninsula is taken up with farmland or, at the extremity of the Isle of Grain, warehouses and factories.  I would love to visit the village of Grain sometime - looking at it on the map, it seems to be an incredibly remote and isolated place.  In the 1930's, the Southern Railway company tried to turn another Hoo village, Allhallows, into a major seaside resort, along the lines of Margate or Brighton.  They even renamed it Alhallows-on-the-Sea, but it didn't really take off and I imagine Allhallows also has an isolated feel to it - my curiousity has been roused by both places, that's for sure!

Newlands Farm to Cooling (3.7 miles)



BAM's muddy boots

 Just after the turn off from Newlands Farm, as we were making our way across the fields to Northward Hill, we suddenly hit a major obstacle - mud!  Mud of epic proportions.  Mud that was so sticky and heavy I thought I was going to have abandon BAM to her fate and come back with a rescue team!  I'm exaggerating slightly, of course, but I'm including a photo of BAM's muddy boots, so you can get an idea of what it was like. 

Northward Hill is home to the High Halstow National Nature Reserve and Britain's largest heronry.  It's a beautiful part of the world and, as we came to the edge of the wood, overlooking the Cliffe and Cooling marshes, the view literally took my breath away!  It's an amazingly rich, but fragile, environment and was under threat of destruction in 2003, when the (then) Labour government was considering whether or not to build a new 'Thames Estuary' airport here.  I think the 'Cooling Airport' plans have been put to bed, thankfully, although the Mayor of London, Boris Johnson has revived the idea of building an airport at Shivering Sands, near Whitstable in Kent, further down the coast.  I don't see why they can't build an 'offshore' airport, like the one in Hong Kong.  There was a suggestion at one time to build an artificial island off the Isle of Sheppey, but this was rejected as a option that would be too expensive. 

Sunset over Cooling marsh

The Cooling and Cliffe marshes that you can see in my photo were also used as a substitute for the Paddy fields of Vietnam in the movie Full Metal Jacket.  I read about this before the walk and I couldn't quite picture it.  Standing on the edge of Northward Hill, looking across the water-logged expanse in front of me, I finally understood why they'd chosen this spot - it's certainly very different to anywhere else I've been in England.

Cooling to Cliffe (approx 1.9 miles)

 I recently watched a classic British horror called The Vault of Horror.  It consists of a series of nightmares that are told by the five main characters.  The first sub-plot is called Midnight Mess and tells the story of a young man who wants to kill his sister, so he can come into a substantial inheritance.  He tracks her down to an eerie country village which, it turns out, is soley inhabited by vampires.  For some reason, Cooling reminded me of that village!  My imagination was helped along by the fact that the sun had just gone down and the graveyard of Cooling church is believed to have been the inspiration for the opening scenes of Dicken's Great Expectations.  After her trauma of almost being 'stuck in the mud', poor BAM had the wits scared out of her by the idea that we were walking through a village full of vampires!



The gatehouse of Cooling Castle



Cooling castle is also pretty impressive and was the home of Sir John Oldcastle, the inspiration for Shakespeare's Falstaff and leader of the late-13th century Lollard movement, an early form of Protestantism.  The Lollards were hated by the establishment, because of their revolutionary ideas, such as pacifism and the existence of a lay priesthood.  There was a vicious campaign against them and contemporary pamphlets depicted them as cunning foxes who were using fancy words and ideas to misled the uneducated (and blameless) peasantry.  Cooling went down in history as the capital of Lollardry!  By all accounts, Jools Holland lives in the residential part of the castle.  I've included a photo of the gatehouse, which was all lit up.

The last part of our walk was done in almost complete darkness.  I don't have much experience walking across muddy fields in the dark, but it was spookily peaceful and we'd come prepared with head torches.  We ended our walk at Cliffe, celebrating with a feast at the Indian restaurant attached to the Six Bells pub.  If you ever have the pleasure of going to Cliffe, make sure you have planned an escape route.  Naively our plans of getting a bus back to civilisation proved to be a tad ambitious.  The restaurant very kindly rang around the local taxi firms until they found someone who would be willing to take us back to Strood station. Being Saturday night, it was a long wait before the taxi driver could come and get us. 

So there we have it - another Chester done and dusted - can't wait until the next one!!

Image credits:

All photos were taken by me - please feel free to reuse them, under the Creative Commons license, with Attribution/Share Alike.